Interview
Kangqi Zou
Kangqi Zou, a New York-based fashion designer and Parsons alumna, subtly challenges and redefines fashion norms through her commitment to feminist principles. Her designs engage in a thoughtful dialogue between form and concept, exploring the nuances of identity and societal roles. Zou's design approach combines aesthetic finesse with cultural commentary, fostering a nuanced discourse on femininity. Each collection serves as a canvas, inviting reflection and challenging traditional perceptions, allowing wearers to elegantly express complex identities. This engagement with fashion transforms her pieces into statements of empowerment and skillfully repositions traditional narratives within a contemporary context.
What is your background and how did you start your journey in the art world?
“From a young age, growing up in the shadows of a bustling steel mill, I was drawn to the arts as a form of escape and expression. The rigid structures and the soft play of light and shadows around me sparked a fascination with creating something beautiful from the mundane. This early environment taught me to see the world through a lens of design and potential. Even as a child, I was always crafting, using whatever materials I could find. I remember using tissues to fashion tiny dresses for dolls, experimenting with shapes and textures long before I understood their design implications. This playful exploration evolved into a more serious passion when I began my formal training at Parsons School of Design in New York. Immersed in the vibrant and diverse fashion scene of the city, my childhood experiments transformed into sophisticated designs. Parsons wasn't just about learning the technical skills of fashion; it was an environment that nurtured my creative instincts and pushed me to think critically about how clothing can express complex identities and narratives. Each project and piece I created was a continuation of that early, intuitive understanding of art and design, telling human stories through the medium of fabric and form.”
What inspires you?
“My inspiration is drawn from a blend of personal experiences and pressing societal themes such as feminism, identity, and self-analysis. I have a deep fascination with how tangible, everyday objects can convey complex emotions and narratives. The textures, materials, and forms I encounter daily not only inspire me but also help shape the silhouettes and fabrics of my designs. These elements are essential as they carry the emotional weight and cultural significance that I aim to express through my work. For instance, in my "Monkey See, Monkey Do" project, I tackled the abstract concept of fashion's class hierarchy by merging high fashion with industrial elements. This idea was sparked by the solid, often overlooked forms of industrial machinery and the elegant poses of 1950s fashion models. By analyzing and integrating these influences into the collection’s silhouettes, I sought to highlight the clash between different social strata and the fluidity of class symbols within fashion. Similarly, in the "Nightmare" project, I wanted to explore the nuanced theme of fear. I drew inspiration from the shapes of insects, which personally unsettle me. This inspiration was transformed into design elements that weave the sensation of fear into wearable art, allowing the garments to act as a medium for expressing and confronting such fears.”
What themes do you pursue? Is there an underlying message in your work?
“My work consistently explores themes related to identity, culture, and the nuanced dynamics of gender. Central to my design philosophy is the exploration of feminist ideals, examining how fashion can both reflect and shape the perceptions of femininity and power in contemporary society. Each collection delves into the complexities of self-discovery and the roles imposed by societal norms. A recurring theme in my designs is the tension between tradition and modernity, particularly how these forces shape personal and collective identities. By blending historical influences with avant-garde design, my work invites viewers to question and redefine what fashion signifies in our lives. The underlying message in my work is one of empowerment and introspection. Through my designs, I aim to empower wearers to express their unique identities boldly and to consider the deeper meanings behind their fashion choices. I believe that fashion is not just about aesthetics but is a powerful form of communication that can challenge societal norms and inspire change. My goal is to create fashion that makes people think, feel, and reflect on their place within the broader cultural and social fabric.”
How would you describe your work?
“I would describe my work as a playful yet poignant exploration of identity and culture, woven into the very fabric of each design. At its heart, my fashion is about storytelling, transforming traditional and contemporary elements into a visual dialogue that speaks to both past influences and present-day issues. Each collection is a thoughtful mix of drama and subtlety, where historical nuances meet modern flair. I enjoy playing with contrasts - melding soft textures with bold silhouettes or integrating stark industrial materials into fluid, elegant forms. This approach not only makes each piece visually compelling but also imbues it with layers of meaning, reflecting the complexities of personal and societal narratives. In essence, my designs are meant to spark curiosity and conversations. They invite onlookers and wearers alike to delve into a deeper understanding of the clothes we wear and the stories they tell us about ourselves and the world around us. Through my work, I hope to offer a fresh perspective on how fashion can be both a mirror and a challenge to the societal norms we navigate daily.”
Which artists influence you most?
“Jonathan Anderson, the creative director of Loewe, is a significant influence on my work. His ability to blend whimsical, quirky expressions with cutting-edge fabrics perfectly aligns with my own design ethos. Anderson's designs stand out for their humor and uniqueness, which he skillfully balances with a strong commercial appeal, making his collections both accessible and avant-garde. What I particularly admire about Anderson is his knack for minimalism that never feels sparse but is always rich in narrative and intent. His work demonstrates how fashion can communicate complex ideas in a seemingly simple garment. This approach has inspired me to pursue a similar path - creating designs that are not only visually appealing but also deeply meaningful. Anderson's success in marrying the artistic with the commercial without compromising the integrity of his creative vision is something I strive to emulate in my own collections. His influence encourages me to explore how fashion can be both a form of art and a commercially viable product. It challenges me to think about how my designs can resonate with people on both an aesthetic and functional level, making them not just wearable, but also relatable and engaging in their storytelling.”
“I would describe my work as a playful yet poignant exploration of identity and culture, woven into the very fabric of each design.”
What is your creative process like?
“My creative process is an iterative journey that starts with a deep dive into textures, which I believe are the foundation of any design. From there, I craft these textures into silhouettes, shaping how the garment interacts with the body and its aesthetic presence. Color comes last, serving as the final accent that completes the narrative of the piece. For instance, in the "Monkey See, Monkey Do" collection, I began with the tactile feel of industrial materials, molding them into bold silhouettes that contrast sharply with their origins. The color palette was then carefully chosen to emphasize these contrasts, highlighting the fusion of ruggedness and elegance. Throughout my design process, I often face a multitude of choices and potential directions, which can be both overwhelming and exciting. Much of my time is spent in contemplation, experimenting with various possibilities before making final decisions. It’s a process filled with trials and revisions - many ideas don't make it to the final cut, but each one contributes to the evolution of the collection. This challenging yet rewarding journey is a fundamental part of creating art, as it pushes me to refine and redefine my work until it fully realizes my creative vision.”
What is an artist’s role in society and how do you see that evolving?
“An artist's role in society is multifaceted, serving to challenge perceptions, inspire change, and reflect the cultural and social dynamics of their times. By producing work that provokes thought and stimulates discussion, artists contribute significantly to the cultural dialogue, encouraging communities to view the world through various lenses and consider new perspectives. As we move forward, the significance of this role is only set to increase. Artists have the unique ability to connect diverse groups, bridging cultural and societal gaps, particularly in our increasingly digital and globalized world. With platforms like social media, artists can reach broader audiences than ever before, amplifying their impact on societal norms and values. Moreover, as global issues such as sustainability and environmental responsibility gain urgency, artists are increasingly using their platforms to promote awareness and drive change. This evolution of the artist's role reflects a growing responsibility not only to challenge and inspire but also to lead in advocating for a sustainable future. Through their creative expressions, artists have a profound opportunity to shape societal values and contribute to a broader understanding of both current and future challenges.”
Have you had any noteworthy exhibitions you'd like to share?
“Recently, I had the opportunity to participate in Paris Fashion Week as the lead fashion designer for Maison de Hoe. This prestigious event was a remarkable experience, allowing me to showcase my designs on the iconic runway. It was inspiring to see the diverse array of talented designers and their creations. In this exhibition, I was particularly excited to present my designs, which incorporated floral elements to celebrate feminism and the beauty of cultural heritage. Being able to highlight these themes on such a prominent stage was incredibly fulfilling. The experience of bringing my vision to life and sharing it with a global audience was a significant moment for me, reinforcing my dedication to creating fashion that both empowers and inspires.”
Website: kangqizou.com
Instagram: @kangqiyaaaaa
